A black-sand treasure hunt.
Eight kilometres south of Tulamben village sits Seraya Beach — a quiet stretch where the lava flows from Mount Agung's 1963 eruption met the sea. The result is fine black volcanic sand sloping out to 30 metres with almost no coral cover. From a wide-angle perspective, it looks empty.
From a macro perspective, it's the richest dive on the east coast. Harlequin shrimp on starfish, mimic octopus doing impressions, tiger shrimp on bubble corals, flamboyant cuttlefish, blue-ringed octopus, half a dozen frogfish species. Everything is small, everything is rare, and you'll need a guide who knows the slope by heart.
"If it's weird, lives in sand, and you've never seen one — Seraya is where you'll find it."
Seraya is a slow dive — mostly flat slope work at 8–18 m, hovering and looking. Bring a magnifier, a powerful video light, and patience. The currents are usually nil, and viz is moderate (10–15 m typical) — perfect conditions for spotting the kind of critter that makes you forget you're underwater.